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The Loneliest Road

Visiting Great Basin National Park

Approaching Nevada from the east, travelers are greeted by the towering silhouette of Wheeler Peak, at 13,063 ft (3,982 m) the second-highest and most impressive mountain in the state; from the west, similarly sheer escarpments tower over lush green open range for miles and miles along US-50. In 1987 more than 77,000 ac (31,160 ha) around Wheeler Peak were designated Great Basin National Park, but its remote location has made it one of the least-visited national parks in the United States. Hikers and campers will have no trouble finding solitude amid the alpine forests, ancient bristlecone pines, delightful annual wildflowers, glacial lakes, and a small ice field.

Thanks to the well-maintained Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive climbing to over 10,000 ft (3,048 m), the wilderness areas are easily accessible to people willing to take a short hike, though many visitors go no farther than the park’s centerpiece, Lehman Caves. Geological forces have been sculpting Lehman Caves for roughly 70 million years, but they weren’t noticed until homesteader Absalom Lehman stumbled upon the small entrance to the caves in 1885. They were declared a national monument in 1922, and since then only minor improvements have been made, leaving the mind-bending limestone formations alone—no flashy light-and-sound show, just hundreds of delicate stalagmites, stalactites, helictites, aragonites, and the like. Check at the small visitor center (775/234-7331) to see if tours are available. It also offers details on hiking and camping as well as exhibits on Great Basin wildlife—from birds and bats to mountain lions. There’s even a small summer-only café.

Food and Lodging Near Great Basin National Park

If you’re not camping and self-relying, or if you are and want a break, the nearest food and drink are at the foot of the park in the tiny, artsy, and friendly “town” of Baker (pop. 68), which boasts a gas station, a great place to stay—the nine-room Stargazer Inn (775/234-7323, $82 and up)—as well as good food, beer, wine, and at Kerouac’s Restaurant (May-Oct. dinner). Baker is also home to the main Great Basin National Park visitor center (775/234-7331), on the north side of town.

Back on US-50, straddling the Utah-Nevada border, the Border Inn Casino (775/234-7300) is a much more functional café-gas station-motel, open daily 24 hours. From here, the only other reliable services are in Ely, 62 mi (100 km) west, or in Delta, Utah, 96 mi (155 km) to the east, so pass by at your peril.

Map of the Loneliest Road through Nevada.
Map of the Loneliest Road through Nevada.
Map of the Loneliest Road through Great Basin National Park.
Map of the Loneliest Road through Great Basin National Park.


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