Visiting El Paso, Texas, on the Southern Pacific Route

Part of the largest and fastest-growing international community in North America, El Paso (pop. 839,238) was originally settled because of its site at one of the safest crossings of the Rio Grande. It later grew into a vital way station on the transcontinental Butterfield Stage and Southern Pacific Railroad. As its name suggests, for most people El Paso is a place to pass through, but there are many things here for visitors to enjoy, particularly in the wake of the thoughtful revival of the historic downtown district.

One of the most interesting aspects of El Paso is the border itself, which for years followed the Rio Grande (known as the Río Bravo in Mexico). Frequent changes in course caused innumerable problems for the two governments. In 1968, the river was run through a concrete channel to create a permanent borderline.

Hidden away amid El Paso’s horizontal sprawl are the oldest Spanish colonial missions that still stand in what is now the United States. These three churches—Ysleta, Socorro, and San Elizario—stand along the well-signed “Mission Trail,” southeast of downtown between the Rio Grande and I-10.

El Paso’s hard-to-find Concordia Cemetery (it’s just northwest of the junction of I-10 and US-54) is the final resting place of John Wesley Hardin, the “Fastest Gun in the West” before he got killed in 1895.

The University of Texas El Paso (UTEP) campus, along I-10 west of town, has the only buildings in North America designed to look like Bhutanese monasteries. College basketball fans may also know that in 1965-1966 UTEP, then called Texas Western, became the first all-black team to win the NCAA championships, a story told in the book and film Glory Road.

While you’re in town, you can catch a baseball game: the Triple-A El Paso Chihuahuas (1 Ballpark Plaza, 915/533-2273), are a top farm club for the San Diego Padres. El Paso is also the home of Tony Lama boots, which are available at significant discounts at three showrooms around town.

Places to eat in and around El Paso tend, not surprisingly, to specialize in Tex-Mex food. For more traditional fare, Forti’s Mexican Elder Restaurant (321 Chelsea St., 915/772-0066), east of downtown near the Paisano Avenue exit off I-10, is a good choice. Another option with friendly staff and well-liked by locals is Los Bandidos De Carlos & Mickey’s (1310 Magruder St., 915-778-3323).

El Paso’s grand old Hotel Paso del Norte (10 Sheldon Ct., 915/534-3000, $212 and up) has a beautiful bar off the lobby with a Tiffany-glass dome and completed a major renovation in 2020. The usual midrange chains are also available, including a downtown DoubleTree (600 N. El Paso St., 915/532-8733, $99 and up), a block from the ballpark.