The route east along US-50 is uneventful, so if you have some time, loop to the south along Hwy-56, which curves along the north bank of the broad Ohio River. The riverside here is rich in history, and the 60-mile drive passes by modest tobacco farms and timeless small towns, the pastoral scene marred only by occasional power plants, most of them across the water on the Kentucky side.
Though the drive is nice enough in itself, it’s most worthwhile because it brings you to Madison (pop. 12,006), one of the best-preserved historic Ohio River towns, thanks in large part to the National Trust for Historic Preservation, which used Madison as a case study in how to keep small-town America alive and well in the modern age. Now a popular vacation destination, especially during the Chautauqua Arts Festival in late September and the rowdier Madison Regatta around the 4th of July, when 200-mph hydroplanes race along the river, Madison has managed to stay alive economically without sacrificing its small-town charms. Wandering around a few blocks of the franchise-free Main Street, you can enjoy a milk shake at the soda fountain in the back of Rogers Drug Store, listen to the town gossip while getting a haircut at the chrome and red-leather barber shop, or tour the many historic homes. The best of these is the impressive Greek Revival mansion of Civil War financier James Lanier, near the river at 511 W. 1st Street. Also worth a look is the perfectly preserved doctor’s office at 120 W. 3rd Street, which served as the only hospital between Cincinnati and Louisville from 1882 to 1903.
Besides the wealth of Americana, Madison has a number of good places to eat along the three blocks of Main Street, including Hinckle’s, open 24 hours (closed Sun.) for great greasy-spoon burgers and round-the-clock breakfasts. Places to stay range from the 1847 federal-style Schusser House B&B ($90 and up; 812/273-2068 or 800/392-1931) at 514 Jefferson Street to the motel-type rooms at the Clifty Inn ($80; 812/265-4135) in wooded Clifty Falls State Park, a mile west of town.
For complete information on Madison, contact the visitors center (812/265-2956 or 800/559-2956) at 301 E. Main Street, across from the landmark Jefferson County Courthouse.
