In the middle of the Arizona desert, 60 miles northwest of Phoenix and 130 miles from Kingman, Wickenburg (pop. 5,082) grew up as a gold-mining camp in the 1860s and has survived as a low-key resort community. A few crusty prospectors still search for a strike, and cowboys are often seen riding through town, which makes Wickenburg a pleasant place to get a feel for the Old West, especially during the winter months when temperatures are mild and the sun shines nearly every day.

  Wickenburg’s Wild West ambience and reliably good winter weather accounts for the number of dude ranches dotting the surrounding desert, most of which are intended for long stays (a week at least) rather than passing travelers. Wickenburg is also home to the gold-mining ghosts of the Vulture Mine, which produced some $200 million before its closure in the 1940s. For complete details on the region, contact the Wickenburg visitors center (928/684-5479), in the old railroad depot on Frontier Street, a block west of US-93.

  Two blocks south along Frontier Street and the railroad tracks, at the US-60/US-93 junction and Wickenburg’s only stoplight, the Desert Caballeros Western Museum (daily; $5; 928/684-2272) gives a broad overview of regional history, and contains a surprisingly good collection of Western art and sculpture (from George Catlin to Charley Russell), plus the usual rocks and rusty relics.

  Most of the places to eat and sleep are lined up along east–west US-60 (Wickenburg Way); try the Gold Nugget coffee shop at 222 E. Wickenburg Way, across from the Best Western Rancho Grande motel ($80 and up; 928/684-5445 or 800/528-1234).