Spanning 110 miles of barren desert east of Yuma, between the U.S. Air Force’s 14-million-acre Barry M. Goldwater Bombing Range and a U.S. Army Proving Ground, the I-8 freeway follows the route of early Spanish explorers and settlers on the flat but forbidding Camino del Diablo, along the banks of the usually dry Gila River.
East of 767-foot-high Telegraph Pass, 20 miles outside Yuma, the old US-80 highway reappears along the north side of the freeway, running through old-time desert outposts. If you’re hungry, the flyspeck ranching community of Tacna has a great place to eat burgers, lamb chops, and a full menu of other Mexican and American dishes: Basque Etchea (closed Mon.; 928/785-4027). Take I-8 exit 42, then head north across the railroad tracks. Dateland, 25 miles farther east along I-8, has a café and gift shop selling dates in all possible forms, including refreshing milk shakes.