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INDEPENDENCE

A quiet suburb lying on the eastern fringe of greater Kansas City, Independence (pop. 113,288) doesn’t look like a special place, but it is. One of the country’s most history-rich small cities, Independence came to life during the early years of the westward expansion, serving as the jumping-off point for the Santa Fe, and later, Oregon and California Trails. A century later, Independence again gained prominence as the hometown of U.S. President Harry Truman, who lived here from boyhood until his death in 1972.

  The city-run National Frontier Trails Center (daily; $4), four blocks south of the town square at 318 W. Pacific Street, is one of the best museums dedicated to America’s pioneers. Beginning with a brief account of Lewis and Clark, the exhibits explore the heyday of the Santa Fe Trail, which throughout the 1820s and 1830s made Independence the leading town on the western frontier. The later Oregon Trail, on which some 300,000 people left Independence for the West Coast, is recounted through an engagingly displayed series of diary entries and drawings made by pioneers.

  While very little remains from the pioneer days, Independence has hardly changed since Harry Truman grew up here around the turn of the 20th century. The soda fountain where he held his first job, and the courtroom where he presided as judge, still stand in the town square. His home, northwest of the square at 219 N. Delaware Street, is open for tours (daily; $4), and the large Harry S Truman Library (daily; $5) four blocks north contains his presidential papers, a replica of his White House office, and the gravesites of Truman and his wife, Bess.

  Clinton’s Soda Fountain (“Where Harry Had His First Job”; 816/833-2625), at 100 W. Maple Street, still serves milk shakes and sandwiches. For a place to stay, try the historic Serendipity B&B ($45–85; 816/833-4719), at 116 S. Pleasant Street, within a short walk of all the Independence attractions.

  For more information, contact the Independence visitors bureau (816/325-7111), located at 111 E. Maple Street.

US-50: Kansas City to Jefferson City map

US-50 Route Detail: Kansas City to Jefferson City

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