The last Route 66 town to be bypassed by I-40, Williams (pop. 2,842; elev. 6,780 ft) held out until the bitter end, waging court battle after court battle before finally surrendering on October 13, 1984. Despite the town’s long opposition, in the end Williams gave in gracefully, going so far as to hold a celebration-cum-wake for the old road, highlighted by a performance atop the new freeway overpass by none other than Mr. Route 66 himself, Bobby “Get Your Kicks” Troup.
Williams today is primarily a gateway to the Grand Canyon, but it also takes full tourist advantage of its Route 66 heritage: The downtown streets sport old-fashioned street lamps, and every other store sells a variety of Route 66 souvenirs, making the town much more than a pit stop for Grand Canyon-bound travelers. Apart from the Route 66 connections, Williams’s pride and joy is the vintage Grand Canyon Railway, which whistles and steams its way north to the canyon every morning March–December, taking roughly two hours each way. Call for current schedules and fares (round-trip costs around $60; 800/843-8724), or stop by the historic depot, a former Harvey House hotel restored in 1990. Williams is also home to a landmark old Route 66 restaurant, Rod’s Steak House (928/635-2671), at 301 E. Bill Williams Avenue, in business since 1946.
For a place to stay—and there are many, thanks to the nearby Grand Canyon—there’s a nice old motor court motel across from Rod’s, now disguised as an EconoLodge ($50 and up; 928/635-4085), at 302 E. Route 66. At the upper end of the scale, look into the historic railroad hotel, the Fray Marcos ($80 and up; 928/635-4010).