Fifteen miles south of Accomac along US-13, the hamlet of Exmore has an architectural landmark that doubles as road-food stop: the Exmore Diner (4264 Main St., 757/422-2313), a streamlined Silk City prefab that has been in business here since 1954. Another 15 miles along, you can get a good idea of just how rural and quiet life is on Virginia’s Eastern Shore by visiting Eastville (pop. 305), the seat of Northampton County. A mile west of US-13 on a well-marked business loop, Eastville centers on the redbrick courthouse and old county jail, with a handful of even older buildings dating back to the mid-1700s. Eastville also has an excellent roadside crab shack along US-13: The Great Machipongo Clam Shack (757/442-3800) has crabmeat sandwiches, fresh steamed clams, and an astonishing variety of shellfish, most of it grown, caught, or picked by locals.