The largest city in southern Missouri, Springfield (pop. 151,580) doesn’t feel nearly as big as it is, though it does sprawl for many miles in all directions. It was here in 1926 that plans for Route 66 were made, and the city preserves much of the old highway frontage along St. Louis Street east of downtown, as well as the grandly named “Chestnut Expressway” west of downtown. The 20-mph speed limit on downtown streets—and tons of free parking—enables Route 66 pilgrims to pay homage to the town’s Arabesque landmark Shrine Mosque theater (417/869-9164), at 601 E. 1st Street; it still hosts occasional concerts.
Springfield is also celebrated as the place where “Wild” Bill Hickok killed fellow gambler Dave Tutt, apparently because Tutt wore the watch he’d won from Hickok playing cards. A plaque in the central square tells one of many variations on the tale.
One place you have to see to believe—though the bass angler in your family will already know about it, for sure—is “The World’s Greatest Sporting Goods Store,” BASS Pro Shops Outdoor World (417/887-7334), at 1935 S. Campbell Street. Along with acres of floor space, the store has a 140,000-gallon fish tank, a 40-foot waterfall, and even its own McDonald’s.
Springfield has at least one fine old Route 66 motel: the Route 66 Rail Haven ($55–75; 417/866-1963), at 203 S. Glenstone Avenue on the corner of old Route 66 and US-65. Open since 1938, it has been fully modernized and now is a Best Western affiliate with a railroad theme. A mile away on old Route 66 is one of the earliest and most stylish models of the Steak and Shake burger chain (417/866-6109); located at 1158 E. St. Louis Street, and open 24 hours, this is one of the last ones where car hops still bring you your food (during daylight hours).
