Though our route across Oregon generally follows scenic US-26, the fastest route east from Portland is I-84, which races along the Columbia River, rejoining US-26 at the Idaho border. Freeway the whole way, I-84 is worth considering for its one incredible feature: the Columbia Gorge, the deep, verdant basalt canyon through which the mighty river, and the freeway, not to mention a busy railroad, all run. The heart of the Columbia Gorge is between the small towns of Sandy and Cascade Locks, some 15 and 35 miles east of Portland respectively, and is best experienced by driving the historic Columbia Gorge Scenic Highway—the oldest scenic route in the country, built beginning in 1913, and still retaining all its old-road character.
The highlight (and approximate midpoint) of this historic highway is the aptly named Vista House, built in 1917 to mark the completion of the road, which here rises over 700 feet above the Columbia River. East of Vista House, a series of tremendous waterfalls drop down along the road: First comes LaTourell Falls; then the 242-foot cascades of Wahkeenah Falls; then, saving the best for last, famous Multnomah Falls, which drops 620 feet into a densely forested canyon, bridged by a delicate concrete arch. Each of these waterfalls is within a short walk of parking areas along the scenic highway, and many smaller falls can be seen cascading from canyon walls.
The Columbia Gorge Scenic Highway rejoins I-84 a few miles east of Multnomah Falls, at the town of Cascade Locks. Another 20 miles east, at the east end of the Columbia Gorge, the lively town of Hood River is packed with brewpubs, espresso bars, bookshops, cafés, and moderate motels. Along the river, the historic Columbia Gorge Hotel (541/386-5566) preserves its Jazz Age elegance, with comfortable rooms and an excellent restaurant.
