Roughly midway across New York State, Skaneateles (pop. 2,700; scan-e-AT-less) is a pristine, sun-dappled resort nestled on the north shore of shimmering Skaneateles Lake. This popular summer family escape houses arts, crafts, and antique stores along its immaculate Genesee Street (US-20), which fronts a lovely lakeside park where you can enjoy free summer concerts (Fri. at 7 pm) on the quaint bandstand, watch the boats come and go, or hop on board a historic lake steamer for a scenic tour offered by Mid-Lakes Navigation (315/685-8500). A stroll up the main downtown north–south drag leads you past the unadorned Skaneateles Bakery (315/685-3538) at 19 Jordan Street to the Skaneateles Historical Society’s petite Creamery Museum (1–4 pm Thurs.–Sat.; donation; 315/685-1360) and elm-lined side streets full of well-maintained Greek Revival homes.
If you’re hungry for more than a pastry or piece of cake, wait in line at the high-quality but self-effacing Doug’s Fish Fry (315/685-3288) at 8 Jordan Street, “not famous since 1962” for its fried haddock sandwiches (“2,987,000 sold”), fried clams, Coney Island hot dogs, and ice cold beer. Doug’s also has creamy, thick Perry’s ice cream and milk shakes, plus fresh strawberry sundaes in season. Buy a postcard for a nickel, and Doug’s will slap on a stamp and send it on its way.
For something a bit more sit-down and soothing, one of the country’s oldest restaurants, Kreb’s Inn (315/685-5714), has been open since 1899 at 53 W. Genesee Street, and will empty your wallet with its pricey-but-hearty lobster, roast beef, and chicken specialties. One of the finest restaurants in upstate New York is the dining room at Mirbeau Inn (315/685-5006) at 851 W. Genesee Street, serving classic French meals for around $100 a head; the deluxe inn also has a small number of rooms ($125 and up).
A number of motels line US-20 east and west of Skaneateles; stay at the Hi-Way Host (315/685-7633), west of downtown at 834 W. Genesee Street, and you can eat at the family-friendly Hilltop Restaurant, across the highway, then go bowling in the adjoining Cedar House Bowling Center. Another nice place, the Sherwood Inn ($90 and up; 315/685-3405), is along US-20 at 26 W. Genesee Street.