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GENEVA AND WATERLOO

Geneva (pop. 14,100) sits at the head of Seneca Lake, the largest of the Finger Lakes, and is linked to this sailboat-flecked jewel by a long, green linear park. For a worthwhile detour off the busy four-lane highway, take a quick pass through the lively downtown along Main Street, perhaps wandering around the twin campuses of Hobart and William Smith Colleges to take in a more long-distance view of the lake. The waterfront is dominated by a solitary high-rise housing the Ramada Inn ($80–130; 315/789-0400), but a much more interesting place to stay is a half mile south of town: the historic Belhurst Castle ($120 and up; 315/781-0201), a 100-year-old, 14-room B&B at 4069 S Hwy-14.

  Ten miles east of Geneva, at the edge of Waterloo, the unprepossessing Mac’s Drive-In Curb Service Restaurant (315/539-3064) at 1166 Waterloo-Geneva Road has been open every summer since 1961, dishing out creamy Richardson’s root beer floats, frosty 16-ounce mugs of Pabst Blue Ribbon, butter-dipped sweet corn, and burgers-in-a-basket at an awning-covered counter or right at your car window.

The Oregon Trail: Canadaigua to Richfield Springs map

The Oregon Trail Route Detail: Canadaigua to Richfield Springs

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