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WEST YELLOWSTONE, MONTANA

Western gateway to Yellowstone National Park, the Montana town of West Yellowstone (pop. 1,177; elev. 6,667) sits just over the Idaho border, offering all the motels, gas stations, and cafés you could ever want, plus a lot more. The primary access point for early tourists visiting Yellowstone on the Union Pacific Railroad, West Yellowstone preserves a great deal of old-style tourist facilities. The rustic old railroad station is now the engaging Museum of the Yellowstone ($6; 406/646-1100), and the town’s many roadside motels (there are more motel rooms than residents!) display a mouthwatering assembly of nifty neon signs while still serving the food-and-fuel needs of today’s travelers.

  There’s also a huge IMAX theater ($9; 406/646-4100), at 101 S. Canyon Street, in case you prefer the Memorex version to real-life Yellowstone. The theater (recently offering a somewhat surreal triple bill: Yellowstone, Wolves, and Michael Jordan!) is adjacent to a contentious wildlife theme park that intends to collect “problem” bears and wolves and put them on display—rather than kill them as is currently done.

  West Yellowstone’s main drag, Canyon Street (US-20), is lined by cafés and Wild West souvenir shops. The excellent Book Peddler (406/646-9358), at 106 Canyon Street, boasts an espresso and sandwich bar along with a wide array of fiction and nonfiction titles.

  Most of West Yellowstone’s enviable collection of historic motels are off the main highway frontage, so drive around the back streets and take your pick; the Arts-and-Crafts-style Stage Coach Inn ($50–150; 406/646-7381), at Madison and Dunraven Streets, has been charming visitors for more than half a century.

The Oregon Trail map

The Oregon Trail Route Detail: Parma to West Yellowstone, Montana

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