Like warring branches of an extended family, Dallas and Fort Worth are inseparable archrivals. Both towns lay fair claim to being capitals of their respective industries: Fort Worth (pop. 535,000) calls itself “Cowtown” but has a surprisingly sophisticated range of cultural centers, and feels like an altogether more “Texan” place; it was founded during the heyday of the Chisholm Trail and still retains much of its Wild West past. Meanwhile Dallas (pop. 1,200,000), which boomed after the discovery of oil in east Texas during the 1930s, plays the role of nouveau riche to the nth degree, home to Neiman Marcus and TV’s eponymous soap opera.
In terms of things to see and do, Fort Worth holds the winning hand. The wonderful Kimbell Art Museum (closed Mon.; free; 817/332-8451), 3333 Camp Bowie Boulevard, is one of the most perfectly beautiful modern buildings on the planet, designed as a series of vaulted galleries by Louis Kahn. This small museum, which has an impressive collection of pre-Columbian art and some notable Post-Impressionist paintings, stands at the heart of the Fort Worth Cultural District. Adjacent to the Kimbell is another wonderful work of architecture, the Tadao Ando-designed Modern Art Museum, and across the street, the Amon Carter Museum displays the country’s finest collection of Wild West and other American art.
Two miles north of downtown Fort Worth, head to the Stockyards, on Main and Exchange Streets. For a taste of how Texas used to be, spend some time wandering these two short blocks of turn-of-the-20th-century buildings, stretching west from the still-busy Fort Worth Stockyards, and housing some of the city’s most popular places to eat, drink, and be merry; after dark, check out Billy Bob’s Texas, the “World’s Largest Honky-Tonk,” ($1–35; 817/624-7117).
In Dallas, sightseers head to the Texas School Book Depository (daily; $10; 214/747-6660)—“The Sixth Floor”—at 411 Elm Street. Besides the gruesome novelty value of looking out from the very same place where Lee Harvey Oswald shot (or didn’t shoot . . .) President John F. Kennedy on November 22, 1963, this extensive museum describes the historical context and discusses the myriad conspiracy theories.
In between Dallas and Fort Worth, off I-30 at the Ballpark Way exit in Arlington, the Texas Rangers (817/273-5100) play at Ameriquest Field. Games are broadcast on newstalk KRLD 1080 AM.
