Largest by far of the Mexican border cities, Ciudad Juárez (pop. 1.2 million, and growing fast) is a compelling, disturbing, exciting, and unforgettable place to visit. Though the city sprawls through miles and miles of some of the worst pollution and direst poverty in Mexico, the downtown areas offer a quick taste of the country, and a half-hour walk can take you very far away from the United States. From the El Paso side, don’t drive; park and walk down Stanton Street from downtown and cross the bridge on foot. This crossing drops you at the head of Avenida Juárez, the main drag, lined by cantinas and nightclubs and stalls and stores selling everything from mass-produced “crafts” to knock-off designer goods and Cuban cigars. (The latter items will be confiscated if you try to bring them back into the United States.)
About a half mile south of the border, at the junction with Avenida 16 de Septiembre, Avenida Juárez brings you to the heart of Juárez, where the very good historical museum, housed in the old customs building, and a large, often-packed cathedral give glimpses into the city’s history and culture. Among the many restaurants and bars along Avenida Juárez, a couple to check out are the Kentucky Club, 629 Avenida Juárez, a 1930s-looking bar that could be used as a set for some Raymond Chandler underworld adventure. Legend has it that Marilyn Monroe got drunk here, celebrating her Juárez divorce from playwright Arthur Miller. Next door, Martino’s is a very popular Mexican restaurant. Be warned, however, that many Juárez bars double as brothels—these tend to have giveaway names like “The Pink Lady.”
Food and drink aside, the best thing about a trip south is the chance to enjoy some Lucha Libre—professional wrestling—Mexican style. Dramatic and impassioned bouts (US$5 for a ringside seat) are held Sunday nights in the large municipal auditorium near the cathedral.
