Spreading west from the banks of the Pearl River, Jackson (pop. 185,000) was established as state capital in 1822. Named for Andrew Jackson, hero of the Battle of New Orleans during the War of 1812 and later president of the United States, it was destroyed during the Civil War but is now Mississippi’s political and commercial heart and its biggest city—though you wouldn’t know it by the somnolent look of the place.
The very attractive Greek Revival Old State Capitol, built in 1838 and used until 1903, rises at the center of town at State and Capitol Streets, and is open for free self-guided tours of the building and the well-presented historical exhibits that fill it. Substantial floor space is given over to the 20th century, including a thoughtful (and thought-provoking) examination of the civil rights movement. The few other fine old antebellum buildings—under a dozen altogether—that survive around Jackson were used by Union forces and were thus spared destruction. These include the art-filled Governor’s Mansion (Mon.–Fri. 9:30–11 am; free), a short walk east of the old capitol at 300 E. Capitol Street; and The Oaks (closed Sun.; $3), at 823 N. Jefferson Street, in which General Sherman lived. Restored to prewar splendor, The Oaks is furnished with period antiques and, surprisingly for the South, a sofa from Abraham Lincoln’s law office.
On the south side of downtown Jackson, the Mississippi Museum of Art (daily; $5; 601/960-1515) at 401 E. Pascagoula Street has gained international fame by hosting “blockbuster” touring shows like the “Treasures of Versailles” exhibition in 1998. Year-round, the spacious modern galleries also display works by local and international painters and sculptors.
Away from downtown, the main attraction is the Mississippi Agriculture and Forestry Museum (closed Sun; $4; 601/354-6113), a 40-acre complex on Lakeland Drive northeast of downtown, off I-55 exit 98B. Despite the dull name, it’s a hugely engaging and entertaining place, with a composite “Crossroads Town” made up of authentic buildings, including a general store, filling station, and sawmill brought here from all over Mississippi.
For more local flavor, try Franks’ World Famous Biscuits (601/354-5357), open 6 am–4 pm at 219 N. President Street near the Capitol; or the Elite Restaurant (601/352-5606), at 141 E. Capitol near the Mississippi Museum of Art. Both are friendly, old-timey local favorites, serving up inexpensive but great-tasting food. For fried catfish (the Mississippi state dish), good beer, and great live music, make your way to Hal & Mal’s (closed Mon.; 601/948-0888), at 200 S. Commerce Street, in an old warehouse perched along the abandoned railroad tracks above the Pascagoula Street underpass.
Places to stay in Jackson tend to be either rough-but-cheap highway motels lining old US-80, or anodyne chains along the I-20 and I-55 Interstate frontages, like the Best Western Metro Inn ($70; 601/355-7483 or 800/528-1234), at 1520 Ellis Avenue off I-20 exit 42B.
For more complete information, or details on driving the Natchez Trace Parkway (see page 273), which runs north and south from Jackson, contact the visitors bureau (601/960-1891 or 800/354-7695), located at 921 N. President Street.
