Forty miles south of Leakey, US-83 crosses US-90 (the former San Antonio–El Paso Trail) at Uvalde (pop. 14,292), founded in 1855 and still centered around a broad square that originally served as a wagonyard for teamsters and travelers. Now a mostly Hispanic town, with a wide variety of buildings lining lushly verdant streets, Uvalde has seen its civic life migrate from downtown out toward the highway frontages. Uvalde was the home of a Western legend, the late, great celluloid cowgirl Dale Evans; and the town’s most famous native son, John Nance “Cactus Jack” Garner, served as Franklin Delano Roosevelt’s first- and second-term vice president (1933–41). After retiring from politics, Garner returned to Uvalde and lived here until his death in 1967 at age 98. His home at 333 N. Park is now owned by the University of Texas, and contains the John Nance Garner Museum (closed Sun. and Mon.; 830/278-5018), a repository of memorabilia from Garner’s political career. The 1891 Grand Opera House, on the square at 104 W. North Street, has been restored to a 390-seat live performance venue; it’s open weekdays for free guided tours.
For good Mexican and American food or a cold drink (thick milk shakes a specialty), head to Uvalde’s soda fountain, inside the Rexall Drug Store (830/278-2589) at 201 N. Getty Street. A number of motels line US-90 (Main Street) east of the town square, including the Inn of Uvalde ($40 and up; 830/278-4511), at 920 E. Main Street.
