South of Paint Rock, US-83 winds through another 40 miles of scrubby hills before reaching the fascinating old wool-products market town of Menard (pop. 1,775; muh-NARD), standing in a lush valley along the San Saba River. A trading post and stop on the old cattle trails, Menard was originally founded by Franciscan missionaries in 1757, and many of its early structures survive or have been restored.
It’s an eerily picturesque little town, with huge trees and a wide, wide bridge over the river. Menardville Museum, housed in the old Santa Fe railroad depot, contains a 150-year-old wooden bar from the now-defunct Legal Tender Saloon. A block south of the main drag, the Historic Ditch Walk follows the 10-mile Vaughn Agricultural and Mechanical Canal, a fancy name for an irrigation ditch that has served local farmers since 1876. The canal features remains of the old waterworks and colorful flower plantings, and the walk passes the 1899-vintage Sacred Heart Catholic Church.
Several historic limestone buildings in town date to the turn of the 20th century. The Luckenbach Building (built in 1903) contains the Burnham Brothers Co. (325/396-4572), the oldest U.S. retailer of game calls, from simple wooden instruments to state-of-the-art computerized devices that lure turkey, deer, elk, duck, and other animals.
During Menard’s annual Jim Bowie Days in late June, visitors and residents gather for arts and crafts shows, mock gunfights, live music, and the outdoor production of Song of Silver, a musical patterned after Bowie’s life story.
On the main highway, Sideoats Bakery & Café (325/396-2069), 509 US-83, serves up tasty, health-conscious baked goods and breakfast items, and there are a couple of basic motels: the Motel 83 ($30; 325/396-4549) and the Hilltop ($45; 325/396-2075).
