Coming from the north, Canadian (pop. 2,233) offers an auspicious view as you descend toward it. You plow through an imposing tunnel of trees and then cross the namesake river, once an important route for early explorers; the crossing itself runs alongside anachronistic railroad trestles. Besides sustaining the only trees for miles, contemporary Canadian also has the interesting River Valley Pioneer Museum (daily; 806/323-6548) on US-83 at 118 S. 2nd Street.
For food, Main Street holds some doughnut shops and lunch stands complete with the quintessential advertisement proclaiming “Good Eats.” There are motels on the north side of town, but a couple of blocks east of the chamber of commerce, at 103 N. 6th Street, is an alternative place to stay, the Emerald House Bed and Breakfast (806/323-5827).
Ten miles east of Canadian via paved Hwy-2266, the Black Kettle National Grassland maintains one of the few surviving portions of the natural landscape that once covered the Great Plains—where the deer and the antelope once played, and millions of buffalo roamed. Camping is available at Lake Marvin (580/497-2143). Four miles south of Canadian, along the east side of suddenly four-lane highway that jointly carries US-60 and US-83, a huge brontosaurus stands atop a high bluff. Her name is Aud; don’t ask me why.