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WALL DRUG

America’s most famous roadside business began with free ice water. Ted Hustead bought this tiny South Dakota town’s drug store in 1931. For five years, Ted and his wife Dorothy struggled to survive during the depths of the Depression. Then Dorothy had a brainstorm: Hundreds of people drove past Wall every day on US-16, the main route across South Dakota, battling the dusty dirt road and 90-degree summer heat. Why not give them an excuse to stop? Once in the store, maybe they’d buy an ice cream, or an aspirin.

  So in the summer of 1936, Ted Hustead erected roadside signs to tempt travelers off the highway and into his store. Spaced at intervals along the highway, like the famous Burma Shave ads, the signs read:

GET A SODA
GET ROOT BEER
TURN THE CORNER
JUST AS NEAR
TO HIGHWAY 16 AND 14
FREE ICE WATER
WALL DRUG

  Before he could return to the store, the tourists were already arriving. And they’re coming still: some 20,000 per day in the summer, well over a million a year. Proud South Dakotans have covered foreign landscapes with signs proclaiming the mileage to Wall Drug, and the Husteads themselves have advertised on London buses, Amsterdam canals, and French bistros.

Before the 1960s era of “highway beautification” banned most billboards, Wall Drug touted its free ice water on 3,000 billboards in all 50 states.

  But what’s waiting at the end of all those billboards?

  Originally, not much, apart from that glass of water. But today’s 50,000 square-foot Wall Drug is a different story: it can feed, clothe, and entertain the entire family for hours. Photo opportunities abound, thanks to the 80-foot-long dinosaur, 6-foot fiberglass jackalope and Mt. Rushmore replica, a 520-seat cafe, and shops for everything from postcards to cowboy boots. A younger generation of Husteads still runs Wall Drug, the ice water’s still free, and the coffee still costs a nickel. Drop in sometime!

  Wall Drug (605/279-2175) is at 510 Main Street, at the center of Wall, South Dakota (pop. 800), just north of I-90 exit 110. Apart from Wall Drug, the other reason to visit is the chance to tour a real-life nuclear missile silo, at the Minuteman Missile National Historic Site (daily; 605/433-5552), off I-90 exit 131.

Road to Nowhere: Standing Rock Indian Reservation to Rosebud Indian Reservation map

Road to Nowhere Route Detail: Standing Rock Indian Reservation to Rosebud Indian Reservation

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