The second smallest and by far the sleepiest state capital in the country, Pierre (pop. 13,876; pronounced PEER), is an odd amalgam of South Dakota characteristics. Part farm town, part railroad town, and best of all, part river town, Pierre accurately embodies South Dakota’s dominant activities. Located at nearly the geographic center of the state, quiet, easy Pierre is filled with natural attractions, and totally lacking in the usual power-broker trappings of other state-capital cities.
Pierre’s one not-to-be-missed stop is the excellent South Dakota Cultural Heritage Center (daily; $3; 605/773-3458) at 900 Governor’s Drive, built into the side of a hill on the north side of town. A startling and beautiful structure, it is designed to be a modern evocation of a traditional, energy-efficient Native American dwelling. Inside, the museum has the usual interpretive historical displays of native and pioneer cultures, with a focus on the Sioux tribes and the battles for the Black Hills region. A glass case holds the actual lead plate which the brothers Louis-Joseph and Francois Verendrye, the first Europeans to explore what’s now South Dakota, left behind when they claimed the entire territory for France in 1743.
At the center of town, the state capitol grounds are a verdant island of tranquillity with an arboretum, walking trails, and the Fountain Memorial, dedicated to Korean and Vietnam War veterans. The fountain sits on a lake that is home to thousands of migrating winter waterfowl.
Also worth a look is the South Dakota National Guard Museum (Mon.–Fri. 1–5 pm; free), 301 E. Dakota, which you can’t miss because of the Sherman tank, the A-70 Corsair, and the artillery pieces on the boulevard. You can also see General Custer’s dress sword here. For travel-weary road hogs, the coolest museum is the hands-on South Dakota Discovery Center and Aquarium (daily; $4; 605/224-8295), in the old Pierre Municipal Power & Light building at 805 W. Sioux Avenue, with loads of science exhibits.
Museums aside, nature is really what draws folks to Pierre. Bordering the town to the south is the long La Framboise Isle Nature Area, a perfect place to while away time, recuperating from the drive along the beautiful bay. If you’re interested in biking or paddling along the Missouri River, you can rent bikes and boats at Pedal & Paddle (605/224-8955), 411 S. Pierre Street.
