Few places in the world can match the concentration of natural beauty or the wealth of architecture found in tiny Port Townsend (pop. 8,727). One of the oldest towns in Washington, Port Townsend was laid out in 1852 and reached a peak of activity in the 1880s. But after the railroads focused on Seattle and Puget Sound as their western terminus, the town sat quietly for most of the next century until the 1960s, when an influx of arts-oriented refugees took over the waterfront warehouses and cliff-top mansions, converting them to galleries, restaurants, and comfy B&Bs while preserving the town’s turn-of-the-20th-century character.
Port Townsend is neatly divided into two halves: Multi-story brick warehouses and commercial buildings line Water Street and the wharves along the bay, while lovely old Victorian houses cover the bluffs above. It’s basically a great place to wander, but there are a couple of sights worth seeing, particularly the landmark City Hall along the east end of Water Street at 210 Madison Street. Half of this eclectic gothic pile now houses a local historical museum (daily; donations accepted), with three floors of odds and ends tracing Port Townsend history, including the old city jail where Jack London spent a night on his way to the Klondike goldfields in 1897. The City Hall is also a starting point for Joyce Webb’s expertly guided walking tours (daily by appointment; $10; 360/385-1967) of the waterfront district.
Not surprisingly, considering the extensive tourist trade, Port Townsend has a number of good restaurants and bars. You’ll find many of the best places at the east end of town near the corner of Water and Quincy Streets. For breakfast or lunch, try the Salal Cafe (360/385-6532), at 634 Water Street. For dinner, one of the best seafood places is the Silverwater Cafe (360/385-6448), at 237 Taylor Street near the Quincy Street dock. The lively neighborhood also holds a pair of restored 1880s hotels: the Waterstreet Hotel ($50 and up; 360/385-5467 or 800/735-9810), at 635 Water Street, and the quieter Palace Hotel ($95 and up; 360/385-0773 or 800/962-0741), 1004 Water Street, where the room names play up the building’s past use as a brothel.
The most comfortable accommodations in Port Townsend are the many 1880s-era B&Bs dotting the bluffs above the port area, including the ever-popular Old Consulate Inn ($110 and up; 360/385-6753), 313 Walker Street, where the plush rooms come with a view of Mt. Olympus and a hearty multi-course breakfast. For less-pricey lodging, there’s a campground (360/344-4400) and the HI Olympic Hostel (360/385-0655) in the old Army barracks at Fort Worden, on the coast two miles north of town, with dorm beds for $14 members, $17 nonmembers; private rooms are available for around $40.
