If first and last impressions are enduring, Florence is truly blessed. As you enter the city from the north, US-101 climbs high above the ocean; coming from the south, travelers are greeted by the graceful Siuslaw River Bridge, perhaps the most impressive of a half dozen WPA-built spans designed by Conde McCullough and decorated with his trademark Egyptian obelisks and art deco stylings. Unfortunately, the rest of town, visible from US-101, is a bland highway sprawl of motels, gas stations, and franchised restaurants.

  The best part of Florence, Old Town, is just upstream from the bridge along the north bank of the river. Here, among Bay Street’s three blocks of interesting boutiques and galleries, you’ll find a number of cafés and seafood restaurants. Old Town Florence is also home to the very welcoming Edwin K. B&B ($100–150; 541/997-8360) at 1155 Bay Street, a lovely white Craftsman-style home built in 1914 by one of the town’s founders.