For nearly 50 miles south of Florence, US-101 has an extensive panorama of oceanfront dunes. Though the dunes are often obscured from view by forests, roadside signs indicate access roads to numerous dunescapes on both sides of the highway. Coming from the north, the first of these access points is Honeyman State Park, 10 miles south of Florence, where rhododendrons line a half-mile trail leading to a 150-foot-high dune overlooking a mirage-like lake. A longer trek, leaving from the very pleasant Tahkenitch Lake campground (reservations essential; 800/452-5687), gives a more in-depth look at the dunes’ diverse flora and fauna, including swans and occasional black bears. Perhaps the best introduction is at Umpqua Dunes, nine miles south of the visitors center in Reedsport. From Eel Creek Campground, a 1.5-mile trail leads across small marshes and conifer groves en route to the sea, negotiating lunar-like dunes soaring 300–500 feet—some of the tallest in the world.

  Before setting out on any extended exploration, your first stop should be the USFS-run Oregon Dunes visitors center (541/271-3611) at the junction of US-101 and Hwy-38 in Reedsport, along the Umpqua River midway between Florence and Coos Bay at the heart of the dunes. The helpful rangers can provide detailed information on hiking and camping throughout the park. Reedsport itself has a line of motels and burger joints—Don’s Diner, on US-101 at 2115 Winchester Avenue (541/271-2032), has legions of fans—and you’ll find one more interesting option in the Gardiner Guest House (541/271-4005), which offers comfortable B&B rooms in a restored Victorian home at 401 Front Street.