There’s no sharper contrast on the Oregon coast than the difference between industrial Coos Bay and earthy Bandon (pop. 2,833), 23 miles to the south. Here, in the Old Town section along the banks of the Coquille River, are several blocks of galleries, crafts shops, and fine restaurants, marked by a gateway arch off US-101. Start a tour of Old Town at the corner of 1st and Baltimore, where Big Wheel Farm Supply houses the Bandon Driftwood Museum (daily; free). The combination of sculpted tree roots and fertilizer displays gives a good sense of Bandon’s back-to-the-land, hippie ethos. A more academic introduction to the town and region can be had at the new and improved Coquille River Museum (Mon.–Sat., plus Sun. in summer; $2; 541/347-2164), at 270 Fillmore Street. Its exhibits on area history, cranberries, and local color are artfully done, and the building on US-101 is easy to find, so be sure to stop. South of town from 1st Street, a Beach Loop runs along a ridge overlooking a fantastic assemblage of coastal monoliths.

  For fish-and-chips along the waterfront, the Bandon Fish Market (541/347-4282), at 249 1st Street, is cheap and cheerful; for more sit-down fare and a view of the lighthouse, head to Bandon Boatworks (541/347-2111), 275 SW Lincoln Avenue.

  Outside of town, the exclusive (but open to the public) new Bandon Dunes Golf Resort (golf $225/round, rooms $250 and up; 541/347-4380 or 888/345-6008) has been drawing raves from golfers and well-heeled vacationers alike. Designed to preserve the “natural” landscape in the style of Scottish “links” courses rather than the anodyne green swathes that characterize most country club courses, Bandon Dunes also offers select accommodations and a nice restaurant.