Back along US-101, on the banks of the Eel River midway between the coast and the Humboldt Redwoods, Scotia is the only true company town left in California. The Pacific Lumber Company (aka “PALCO”) built it and still owns everything, from the two huge mills to the 10 blocks of pastel-painted houses, church, and schools that constitute this little community of about 1,000 people.
Stop first at the small museum, housed in the redwood Greek Revival former bank at the center of town, to pick up passes for self-guided tours (Mon.–Fri. 7:30 am–2 pm; free) of the world’s largest redwood mill. Following a yellow painted line through the mill at your own pace, you can gawk at (and listen to—it’s a noisy business) every stage of the milling process. First, cut logs get de-barked by a powerful jet of water, then laser-guided band saws slice the logs into rough boards, which are turned into finished lumber. A raised catwalk runs through the center of the mill, and signs explain what’s happening at each stage.
The one place to stay in town is the rustic Scotia Inn ($120 and up; 707/764-5683), which has B&B rooms and a very good restaurant; it’s on Main Street, a block from the museum.
