From US-101 at Leggett, Hwy-1 twists up and over the rugged coastal mountains before hugging the coast through the weatherbeaten logging and fishing communities of Rockport and Westport. The small and informal Howard Creek Ranch (707/964-6725) in Westport offers comfortable B&B rooms, an outdoor hot tub, and easy access to the driftwood-laden beach. Farther south, MacKerricher State Park protects seven miles of rocky coast and waterfront pine forest; there’s also a nice campground (800/444-7275).