Established in 1968, and later enlarged at a total cost of over $500 million, Redwood National Park protects some 100,000 acres of redwood forest, including the 30,000 acres previously preserved in the adjacent Smith, Del Norte, and Prairie Creek State Parks. To be honest, apart from the adjacent state parks, the trees preserved here aren’t by any means the oldest, largest, or most beautiful; in fact, much of the federal parkland is second- or third-growth timber, clear-cut as recently as the 1960s. Though redwoods are the fastest-growing softwoods on earth—growing three to five feet a year when young—the groves here are rather disappointing compared to those in nearby areas, and serve more as an environmental buffer zone than a tree-lover’s pilgrimage site.
That said, Redwood National Park does hold two special sights, including the Lady Bird Johnson Grove, on Bald Hill Road a mile east of US-101, where the new park was dedicated in 1969. Ten miles further up this road, and a long hike beyond that, the Tall Trees Grove holds the world’s tallest tree, the 370-plus-foot Libbey Tree, whose trunk measures over 14 feet across.
At the south end of the park, enjoy Teutonic breakfasts at the German-run Rolf’s Park Cafe, attached to the handy Prairie Creek Motel ($70; 707/488-3841), which for over 15 years has made a good budget-travelers’ base for exploring Redwood National Park and environs. The roadside-strip town of Orick stretches south toward the coast, where the main Redwood National Park visitors center (707/464-6101) stands at the mouth of Redwood Creek.
