From the coast, a pair of roads—Panoramic Highway and the Shoreline Highway (Hwy-1)—twist up and over the slopes of Mt. Tamalpais (elev. 2,586), the signature peak of the San Francisco Bay Area. Known usually as “Mt. Tam,” the whole mountain has been protected in semi-natural state within a series of state and national parks, and its voluptuous slopes offer incredible views of the urbanized Bay Area and the untouched coastline; drive to within 100 yards of the top for a 360-degree panorama, or stop at the Pan Toll ranger station (415/388-2070) for a map of Mt. Tam’s hiking routes and fire roads.
A deep, dark valley between the coast and Mt. Tamalpais holds the last surviving stand of Marin County redwoods, preserved for future generations as the Muir Woods National Monument (daily 8 am–dusk; free), and named in honor of turn-of-the-century naturalist John Muir. A paved, mile-long trail takes in the biggest trees, but since the park is often crowded with busloads of sightseeing hordes making the tour from San Francisco, you may want to explore the farther-flung areas, climbing up Mt. Tamalpais or following Muir Creek two miles downstream to the crescent-shaped cove of Muir Beach, along Hwy-1. Besides stunning scenery, Muir Beach is also home to the welcoming Pelican Inn (415/383-6000), an “Olde English”–style pub serving food and fine beers.
Another enjoyably ersatz experience awaits at the junction of Hwy-1 and the US-101 freeway, where a historic roadside restaurant has been resurrected as the Buckeye Roadhouse, near Mill Valley at 15 Shoreline Highway (415/331-2600), where you can feast on fine BBQ, great steaks and burgers, and delicious desserts in a lively, retro–Route 66 atmosphere.
