South of Fort Ross, Hwy-1 climbs high above the rugged coastline, offering breathtaking vistas of the Pacific Ocean hundreds of feet below. Twelve miles south of Fort Ross, Hwy-1 reaches the low-key resort community of Jenner (pop. 300), which stretches along the broad mouth of the Russian River. Harbor seals and sea lions sun themselves on the beach at Goat Rock, houses climb the steep hillsides, and there’s also a gas station, a post office (inside a mobile home), and the excellent River’s End (707/865-2484), which has a range of great food (everything from burgers to Indonesian-spiced seafood) and oceanview tables (inside and outside, depending on the weather).
From Jenner, Hwy-116 runs east along the river, passing through forests, vineyards, and popular summertime resort towns, the largest of which is Guerneville, 12 miles away, with a number of worthwhile cafés and an alternative-minded (read: gay and lesbian) population. Fife’s ($65 and up; 800/734-3371) is the largest gay-oriented resort here, famous for its clothing-optional sunbathing, and can be found at 16467 River Road. A more traditional place, with boat rentals, cabins, and riverfront camping, is Johnson’s (707/869-2022) at 16241 1st Street. After 35-odd miles, Hwy-116 eventually links up with the US-101 freeway to and from San Francisco, providing a faster alternative to coastal Hwy-1.
