South of Pismo Beach, the highways diverge. Hwy-1 cuts off west through the still-agricultural areas around sleepy Guadalupe (pop. 5,659), where produce stands sell cabbages, broccoli, and leafy green vegetables fresh from the fields. The town itself feels miles away from modern California, with a four-block Main Street lined by Mexican cafés, bars, banks, and grocery stores. A great place to get a feel for Guadalupe is at the Far Western Tavern (805/343-2211), open daily for breakfast, lunch, and dinner at 899 Guadalupe Street. Try the steaks, which are awesome.
If you opt to follow US-101, shopping malls and tract-house suburbs fill the inland valleys through Santa Maria, a town best known these days for the sad saga of pop star Michael Jackson. Before his child-abuse trials, however, Santa Maria was famous for its thick cuts of salsa-slathered barbecued beef, which can be sampled at the large and historic Santa Maria Inn (805/928-7777), a half mile west of US-101 at 801 S. Broadway.
