Evolving into a lively artists’ colony from its roots as a fairly gritty and industrial port, Eureka (pop. 26,128) was well known to fur-trappers and traders long before it became a booming lumber and whaling port in the 1850s. Thanks to the lumber trade, Victorian Eureka grew prosperous, building elaborate homes, including the oft-photographed but closed to the public Carson Mansion along the waterfront at 2nd and M Streets, two blocks west of US-101. Along with dozens of well-preserved Victorian houses, Eureka has done a fine job of finding new uses for its many ornate commercial buildings, most of which have been preserved to house art galleries, cafés, and restaurants in what’s now called Old Town, a half-dozen blocks between the waterfront and US-101. This historic downtown quarter has a number of good places to eat and drink, including Ramone’s Bakery (707/445-2923) at 209 E Street, the pub-like Cafe Waterfront (707/443-9190) at 1st and F Streets, and the popular Sea Grill (707/443-7187), a block from US-101 at 316 E Street. Another good place is the no-frills Seafood Grotto (707/443-2075), south of Old Town along US-101 at 6th and Broadway, whose motto is “We Ketch ’em, Cook ’em, Serve ’em”.
Accommodation options range from roadside motels to upscale places like the Carter House Inn ($125 and up; 707/445-1390) at 1033 3rd Street, a re-created Victorian manor with spacious rooms and a big breakfast in the morning. For a more authentic Victorian experience, stay at one of California’s most delightful B&Bs, the Elegant Victorian Mansion ($120 and up; 707/444-3144), at 1406 C Street. A real treasure in a land of nice B&Bs, this magnificently restored 1888 Eastlake-style home has been opulently decorated with real antiques and Bradbury & Bradbury wallpapers by the hospitable Belgian-born innkeeper, Lily Vieyra.
For further information, contact the Eureka! Humboldt County Convention and Visitors Bureau (707/443-5097 or 800/346-3482), 1034 2nd Street.
