Like a little bit of middle America grafted onto the southern edge of Los Angeles, inland Orange County used to feel like a totally different world. Though the demographics have changed considerably in the past decade or two, in contrast to L.A.’s fast-paced, edgily creative multiethnic stew, Orange County in the 1950s and 1960s was suburban America writ large—mostly white, mostly well-off, and absolutely, totally bland. In short, a perfect place to build the ultimate escapist fantasy, the self-proclaimed “Happiest Place on Earth,” Disneyland.
The phenomenon of Disneyland has been done to death by all sorts of social critics, but the truth is, it can be great fun—provided you visit out of season and get there early to avoid the crowds, and really immerse yourself in the extroverted, mindless joy of it all. Most of the rides are great, each in different ways (I like “Pirates of the Caribbean” best), but there can be little forgiveness for “It’s a Small World.” Avoid it like the plague, or risk having the song ringing in your head for days afterward.
If you haven’t been before, or not for a while at any rate, here are some useful tidbits of information: Disneyland is 20 miles south of downtown L.A., right off I-5 in the city of Anaheim—you can see the Matterhorn from the freeway. The park is open daily; in summer, it remains open until midnight. Admission to the park, which includes all rides, costs around $50 per person per day, with discounts for extended visits; kids under 12 save 20 percent. For further park details, including opening hours, call Disneyland at 714/781-7290.
Disneyland opened in 1955, when there was nothing surrounding it; in intervening years, an entire metropolis has grown up around it, and in 2001 the park was joined by the much smaller, more grown-up–oriented California Adventure. Instead of cuddly cartoon characters, this billion-dollar park has thrill rides like “California Screamin’,” a 60-mph roller coaster, and the excellent “Soaring Over California” motion simulator, offering an airborne tour of the Golden State from Yosemite Falls to the Malibu beaches. California Adventure is totally separate from Disneyland, but the hours and admission are about the same.
The whole Disney ensemble includes an upscale resort-hotel complex, surrounded by motels and yet more motels, and it’s well worth staying overnight so you can get an early start, go “home” for a while, and come back for the nightly fireworks show. A highly recommended place to stay is the Coast Anaheim Hotel (714/750-1811), a block from Disneyland at 1855 S. Harbor Boulevard, offering spacious modern rooms (and a nice pool) from $90 per night, with free parking and free shuttles every half hour to and from Disneyland. For more lodging and other travel information, call the Anaheim Convention and Visitors Bureau at 714/765-8888.
