South of Andrew Molera, Hwy-1 cuts inland toward the heart of Big Sur, the deep and densely forested valley carved by the Big Sur River. Consisting of little more than three gas stations, a couple of roadside markets, and a number of lodges and restaurants, the mile-long village of Big Sur (pop. 950) represents the only real settlement between Carmel and Hearst Castle.
At the north end of “town,” the Big Sur River Inn (831/667-2700) has moderately priced, rustic rooms in the lodge and in the motel across the highway; there’s also a woodsy, warm, and unpretentious restaurant overlooking the river. Next door is a small complex that includes crafts galleries, a grocery store with burrito bar, and the homey Big Sur Village Pub, which features good beers, pizzas, and pub grub. Continuing south, the next mile of Hwy-1 holds Big Sur’s main family-oriented resorts, all offering rustic cabins and campgrounds along the river: Riverside (831/667-2414), Ripplewood (831/667-2242), and Fernwood (831/667-2422).