The most attractive and enjoyable town on the far north coast of California, Arcata (pop. 16,651) makes the best first (or last, depending upon the direction you’re traveling) overnight stop south of the Oregon border. The presence of Humboldt State University’s campus on the hills above US-101 accounts for the town’s youthful, non-conformist energy, especially in the cafés, bookstores, bars, and crafts shops that surround the lively Town Plaza, two blocks west of US-101 at 9th and G Streets, incongruously graced by palm trees and a statue of President McKinley. The Utne Reader recently rated Arcata as “the most enlightened small town in California,” and spending even a little time in this vibrant, cooperative Ecotopia may make you wonder whether or not you really do have to race back to the big-city 9-to-5 grind.
You can admire the town’s many elaborate Victorian-era cottages, hunt wild mushrooms, clamber over sand dunes, or hike in the redwoods; afterwards, relax with a cup of tea or, better yet, a soak in a hot tub at homey Cafe Mokka, the coast’s only combo sauna and espresso bar, at 5th and J Streets (707/822-2228). Microbrews flow from the taps of Arcata’s amiable bars, many of which feature live music; for food, drink, and entertainment all under one roof, try the Humboldt Brewery (707/826-2739), just off the plaza at 856 10th Street. For a complete selection of foodstuffs and supplies, and more insight into the local community, head to the large and stylish North Coast Co-op, at 8th and I Streets uphill from the plaza.
For a place to stay, the centrally located Hotel Arcata ($60–90; 707/826-0217 or 800/344-1221) is right on the plaza at 708 9th Street, or you can take your pick of the usual motels along US-101.
