East of the Cascades crest, US-26 becomes the Warm Springs Highway as it angles down out of the mountains across the sage and juniper country of eastern Oregon. Most of the land between here and Madras is part of the 600,000-acre Warm Springs Indian Reservation, home to the Confederated Tribes of Warm Springs (Wasco, Paiute, and Warm Springs).
From US-26, follow signs to Kah-Nee-Tah (ca-NEE-da, all run together despite the odd spelling), a resort complex that cheerfully blends modern and ancient lifestyles. You can soak in the famously soothing hot springs, camp in a tepee, play golf along the banks of the Warm Springs River, and savor salmon fillets cooked over an alderwood fire. The resort also includes the large Indian Head casino. Room rates vary tremendously (541/553-1112 or 800/554-4SUN).
Back on US-26, the real attraction of the reservation is the modern, 27,000-square-foot Museum at Warm Springs (daily; $6; 541/553-3331). Check out exhibits of more than 20,000 artifacts, replicas of a Paiute mat lodge and a Wasco plank house, recordings of tribal languages, and a pushbutton-activated Wasco wedding scene. Across the highway, a stylized mini-mall holds a gift shop and the very good Indian Trail Restaurant.
A mile east, at the edge of the reservation where US-26 bridges the deep canyon of the Deschutes River, the Deschutes Crossing Cafe (541/553-1300), at 2198 US-26, offers good food including Indian fry bread, best followed by a slice of fresh huckleberry pie.
