The seat of Malheur (“Bad Smell” or “Bad Luck,” depending upon who tells it) County, Vale (pop. 1,701), sits on the banks of the Malheur River at the junction of US-20 and US-26. The comparatively easy river crossing and the presence of a natural hot spring made it a prime stopping place on the Oregon Trail. Murals and markers around town explain something of the history, and point out sights like the Malheur Crossing, next to the bridge on the eastern edge of the town, where pioneers dunked their aching bods in the still-hot Malheur River Springs; and Keeney Pass, just south of downtown Vale on Enterprise Avenue, where 150-year-old wagon ruts can still be seen along the roadside. There’s more to see inside the Stone House Museum (closed Sun. and Mon.; free; 541/473-2070), at 255 Main Street, housed inside a frontier-era stagecoach stop and hotel.
Taking a breather at Vale is an honored tradition—it was here that pioneers rested before climbing out of the Snake River Valley into the Blue Mountains. Today’s travelers can opt for a night at the Bates Motel ($40; 541/473-3234), on US-20 at 1101 A Street W; it has nothing to do with Hitchcock’s Psycho, but has been run by the Bates family (no Normans among them) for over 30 years, offering clean showers, a pizza restaurant, and a good night’s sleep. Another unusual option is the 1900 Sears & Roebuck Home (541/473-9636), at 484 N. 10th Street, a B&B originally ordered from the Sears catalog back around the turn of the 20th century.
