After gazing at striped hillsides and fossilized remains, regain some perspective by strolling through any of the towns that line the John Day River along this part of US-26—Dayville, Mount Vernon, John Day, Canyon City, or Prairie City. Founded as miners’ camps after gold was discovered here in 1862, many now cater mostly to local ranchers—but offer a warm welcome to the few visitors who brave a trip through this uninviting but unforgettable part of the world.
Starting in the west, the Dayville Diggins in Dayville will take care of your dust-choked palate; Dayville (pop. 185) also has a great roadside “antiques” store, and what has to be among the world’s smallest city halls—a one-room shack at the east edge of town. The Fish House ($50–65; 541/987-2124), a 1908 bungalow turned antique-bedecked B&B at 110 Franklin, will cater to both your appetite and road-weariness. Farther east, at the junction of US-26 and US-395, Mount Vernon is home to The Wounded Buffalo, a local landmark known for its Buffalo Bill Burger and juicy rib eye steaks.