Described by writer Washington Irving as a place “where nothing meets the eye but a desolate and awful waste, where no grass grows nor water runs, and where nothing is to be seen but lava,” the vast tracts of volcanic fields known as Craters of the Moon National Monument aren’t totally devoid of life—they just look that way. Covering some 60,000 acres at an average altitude of 6,000 feet, the lava fields are but a small part of the extensive Snake River volcanic plain, which forms a 100-mile-wide swath across southern Idaho. The rounded cinder cones and acres of glassy black stone were formed between 2,000 and 15,000 years ago, and, despite first impressions, they do shelter a wide variety of plant and animal life, from pines and prickly pears to various raptors and a population of mule deer. May and June see abundant wildflowers, and temperatures stay cool, so it’s altogether an ideal time to visit.
Easily accessible from a seven-mile loop road that runs south from US-20/26, the most striking remnants of the region’s volcanic activity are the huge cones that rise above the generally flat plain. These huge knolls of lightweight cinder give great views of the overall area, but they’re not volcanoes, and there’s no crater to look down into. The closest Craters of the Moon comes to real craters are the spatter cones midway along the loop, where the deep openings are often filled with snow late into summer. The most interesting section of the monument is at the end of the loop, where—provided you have a flashlight—you can wander through sub-surface lava tubes like Beauty Cave and Indian Tunnel. At 830 feet, Indian Tunnel is the longest in the park.
For further information or to pick up the useful park brochures, stop by the small visitors center (daily; 208/527-3257), where you ought to pay the entry fee. A basic, 52-site campground offers water and restrooms but no showers, hookups, or dump station.
