Capital of Idaho and perennial contender for the title of “most livable” city in the United States, Boise (pop. 187,000) is still a very pleasant, medium-sized city, despite growing at a rate of 25 percent per decade. A lush green oasis in the middle of the barren lava lands of the Snake River plain, Boise was so named by fur-trappers for its dense groves of cottonwood trees (bois is French for “wood”), which made the area an especially welcome respite before irrigation turned the brown desert much greener than it naturally would be. The presence of the state government and the 12,000 students at Boise State University lend a degree of sophistication and vitality mixed in with the more usual Idaho trappings—more than anywhere else for miles, roller blades and mountain bikes compete with pickup trucks as the main method of transportation here, and bookshops and espresso bars line the downtown streets.
Downtown Boise focuses on the state capitol (closed Sun.; free), three blocks north of Main Street between 6th and 8th Streets, a typically grand, neoclassical structure, built of local sandstone with a giant eagle atop its landmark dome. The usual exhibits of the state’s produce fill display cases, and free guided tours are given upon request.
South of the capitol, restaurants and cafés have reclaimed the blocks of 100-year-old brick buildings around 6th and Main Streets, the historic center of Boise. In the heart of this lively, pedestrian-friendly neighborhood, a block south of Main at 611 Grove Street, the small but intriguing Basque Museum (closed Sun. & Mon.; 208/343-2671) documents the culture of the Basque people who work in Idaho’s ranching industries. A block west stands The Grove, Boise’s convention center and main shopping complex, featuring a large fountain through which daredevils like to skate and cycle. Don’t miss Taters (208/338-1062), at 249 S. 8th Street, which sells all manner of Idaho souvenirs, from postcards and fridge magnets to cookbooks describing 100 things you can do with potatoes.
Farther east, where Main Street turns into Warm Springs Road, the Old Idaho Penitentiary (daily; $5; 208/368-6080) served as the main state prison for over 100 years from its construction in 1872. High sandstone walls, cut by prisoners, surround the complex, and the old cell blocks are now filled with displays on prison life—from collections of tattoos to the gallows where many prisoners met their end.
