In the middle of the state, Chillicothe (pop. 21,796; chill-a-COTH-ee) comes as a sudden surprise after the pastoral landscape that surrounds it. It is one of the state’s oldest industrial centers; since 1812 Chillicothe’s economy has revolved around the massive Mead Paper mill on the south side of town, whose red-and-white striped smokestack belches a pungent white cloud around the clock.
Heavy industry aside, Chillicothe has done an admirable job of preserving its history, most notably in the recently spruced-up “First Capital” district along Main Street (US-50) downtown. Dozens of elaborate, late-Victorian commercial buildings and Greek Revival–style mansions, mostly dating from the mid-1850s, surround the overwrought Ross County Courthouse, which has a different entrance for each government department.
While the downtown area is worth a quick stroll, specific sites are few, and the area’s real attraction is three miles north of town via Hwy-104. Officially known as the Hopewell Culture National Historical Park, but usually called Mound City, this complex of prehistoric burial sites sits on the west bank of the Scioto River, just beyond a huge prison complex. Two dozen distinct, grass-covered mounds, the largest of which is about 15 feet high, are reachable on a mile-long trail that starts at the visitors center (daily; $3; 740/774-1125) at 16062 Hwy-104, where films and exhibits explore aspects of this 2,000-year-old culture.
Chillicothe makes a good place to break a journey. Johnny’s (740/772-5570), at 1247 Western Avenue, on US-50 next to McDonald’s a mile west of downtown, serves very good fried chicken but closes at 8 pm. The Chillicothe Inn ($40–60; 740/774-2512) lies a half block north of US-50 at 24 N. Bridge Street.
Chillicothe is known throughout Ohio as the site of Tecumseh, an outdoor pageant dramatizing the life of the Shawnee Indian warrior. Shows are at 8 pm Monday–Saturday in summer only (740/775-0700). More fun, and cheaper, are the baseball games played by the Frontier League Chillicothe Paints (bleacher seats $5; 740/773-8326), who play from June through August near Mound City.
