Nothing helps heighten the contrast between the rest of the world and life along the “Loneliest Road” than making a stop in Reno (pop. 180,480), “The Biggest Little City in the World,” as the bold archway over Virginia Street downtown proclaims. An ancient city by Nevada standards, dating back to pioneer days (the Donner Party camped here on their ill-fated way west), Reno first came to national prominence in the 1930s as a center for quickie divorces, and now has all the gambling of its much-larger sibling, Las Vegas, with a pleasantly homey, settled-down feel.
Besides taking advantage of Reno’s cheap hotel rooms, cheap food deals ($1 hot-dogs-and-Heinekens!) and 24-hour fun, car culture fans will want to visit the $10 million, 100,000-square foot National Automobile Museum (daily; $8; 775/333-9300), on the south bank of the Truckee River at 10 S. Lake Street, perhaps the best and probably the most extensive car collection in the country, assembled primarily by casino magnate William Harrah. (Over 220 classic cars, and a great gift shop, too.) Reno’s other national attraction: the National Bowling Stadium, a state-of-the-art 80-lane extravaganza, at Center and 4th Streets.
For a taste of old-time Reno and a look at some of the oldest slot machines in existence, stop by the Liberty Belle Casino (775/825-1776) next to the Convention Center at 4250 S. Virginia Street. Tiny by contemporary standards, and more of a restaurant than a gambling emporium, the Liberty Belle is owned by the heirs of slot machine inventor Charlie Fey, whose original machines are on display amidst a fascinating collection of gambling ephemera.
Reno is located at the eastern foot of the Sierra Nevada, on I-80 about 30 miles north of Carson City, 25 miles from Virginia City. There’s a nice little mom-and-pop motel, the Heart O’Town ($40 and up; 775/322-4066), right in the heart of it all at 520 N. Virginia Street.
