Between Stateline and Carson City, a delightful little back-door route takes you through Genoa, the oldest city in Nevada. Founded by Mormon farmers way back in 1851, Genoa still retains its rural frontier feel, especially since most of the 20th-century development was focused elsewhere, leaving Genoa pleasantly far behind the times—for the time being, at least, though new faux-Victorian houses for Carson City commuters have been springing up around the historic downtown.
At the center of town is Mormon Station State Park (daily; 775/782-2590), which has a small museum and a stockade dating back to the 1850s. Across the way, at Main and 5th streets, the Genoa Courthouse Museum (daily; 775/782-4325) has more comprehensive displays of historical items—everything from Native American baskets to the keys of the old jail, with an especially interesting exhibition on Wild West legend John A. “Snowshoe” Thompson, who carried the mail over the mountains between Genoa and Sacramento. There’s also a little tidbit on mining engineer and native son George Ferris, who designed and built the first of his namesake Ferris wheels for the 1893 World’s Fair in Chicago. Much of old Genoa has burned down over the years, but the very Genoa Bar (775/782-3870), 2282 Main Street, is full of character, and fairly claims to be the oldest bar in the state.
A nice place to stay is the Genoa House Inn ($120 and up; 775/782-7075), at 180 Nixon Street, a quaint historical B&B. A mile south of town via Foothill Road, Genoa’s other great overnight attraction is Walley’s Hot Springs (775/782-8155), a resort hotel complex built around natural 160-degree hot springs. Thriving on the tourism Genoa’s charm generates, there are also some good shops and restaurants around town.
To get to Genoa from Stateline and Lake Tahoe, go east on Hwy-207, down the very steep Kingsbury Grade, then turn north on Hwy-206. From Carson City, turn off US-395 south of the US-50 junction onto Jack’s Valley Road (Hwy-206), and follow that for 12 miles.
