Halfway across Illinois, just east of the busy I-57 freeway, US-50 cuts through the center of Salem (pop. 7,470), a historically fascinating if visually less-than-thrilling city best known as the birthplace and boyhood home of William Jennings Bryan. The turn-of-the-20th-century politician and orator, who served as leader of the Democratic Party for 15 years, prosecuted the so-called “Monkey Trial” of 1925 and led the successful attack on Tennessee schoolteacher John Scopes (who, coincidentally, was also born and raised in Salem) for breaking a local ban on teaching evolution. Bryan was born in 1860 in the small frame house at 408 S. Broadway, four blocks south of Main Street (US-50). It has been preserved as a small museum (daily except Thurs. 1–5 pm; free). There’s a statue of Bryan, crafted by Mt. Rushmore sculptor Gutzon Borglum, on Broadway a half mile north of Main Street, in front of the Roller Palace skating rink.
Besides William Jennings Bryan, and the sandwich spread Miracle Whip, Salem has given America the G.I. Bill of Rights. Also known as the G.I. Bill, this law entitles military veterans to subsidized education and other services. It was first proposed by the local American Legion branch before being signed into law in 1944.
Salem has a good place to eat, Austin’s Restaurant (618/548-0084), at 1419 W. US-50; and an inexpensive motel, the Continental ($40–60; 618/548-3090), on US-50 at 1600 E. Main Street.
