The flat farmlands of southeast Illinois are dotted with occasional oil wells and signs painted on barn sides encouraging travelers to “Chew Mail Pouch Tobacco” or “See Rock City,” but towns are few and far between. The first of these is the attractive town of Olney (pop. 8,664). Besides boasting a large number of grand old mansions set behind broad green lawns along quiet, leafy streets, Olney has the singular attraction of albino squirrels, which were set loose in town around the turn of the 20th century. By 1940, the WPA Guide to Illinois noted that “thousands of the little animals now scamper about the parks and courthouse square, and frisk over lawns, trees, and rooftops,” though these days you’re most likely to see them if you head to the city park north of the courthouse square.
Perhaps the best reason to detour through Olney is to sample the incredibly good cheeseburgers, onion rings, and milk shakes at Hovey’s (618/395-9144), on old US-50 at 412 E. Main Street—look for the Mike’s Ice Cream sign.
East of Olney, US-50 reverts to two-lane highway, running for 23 miles before passing by Lawrenceville (pop. 4,745), which was named for U.S. Navy Capt. James Lawrence, best remembered for his dying words, “Don’t give up the ship,” during the War of 1812.
East of Lawrenceville, follow the old road south of the modern freeway, crossing the Wabash River into Indiana at historic Vincennes.
