East of Gunnison, the landscape changes swiftly as US-50, and a few masochistic cyclists, climb steeply through a gorgeous alpine landscape of meadows and cattle ranches toward 11,312-foot Monarch Pass. The pass marks the highest point on US-50 and straddles the Continental Divide: The 30 feet of annual snowfall on the east side of the pass end up in the Atlantic, while (in theory, at least) moisture falling farther west makes its way to the Pacific. There’s a ski and snowboarding area here in winter, and in summer you can ride a tram or hike to a nearby summit for a 360-degree view over the Rocky and Sangre de Cristo Mountains.
At the eastern foot of Monarch Pass, the tiny town of Poncha Springs has a pair of places perfect for weary travelers: a truck stop featuring great Mexican food, and the historic Jackson Hotel (719/539-4861), at 6340 US-285, a recently restored 1870s stage stop that has hosted every Wild West figure from Billy the Kid to Teddy Roosevelt, and is now a restaurant serving outstanding steaks.
