A crossroads cattle town with a rapidly-growing recreational aspect and the only commercial airport for miles, Gunnison (pop. 5,409, elev. 7,707) is made livelier than many Colorado towns by the presence of Western State College, whose ski-bumming students are responsible for the many bike shops and Internet cafés, not to mention the huge “W” that marks a mountainside south of town. To get a feel for Gunnison, stop by the lively Bean coffeehouse, a half-block north of US-50 along Hwy-135, which runs through the redbrick heart of old downtown Gunnison. For food, pig out at the Trough (970/641-3724), on US-50 a mile west of downtown. Motels line up along US-50, making Gunnison a handy base for exploring the region.
If you’re taken with the scenery around Gunnison and want to see more, head north along Hwy-135 and the Gunnison River to the area’s skiing and mountain biking center, Crested Butte (pop. 898), 25 miles away. As in Telluride and Aspen, this 100-year-old gold-mining camp won a second lease on life thanks to tourism, though compared to other Colorado places Crested Butte is low-key and somewhat off the beaten path. Skiers in search of solitude flock here in winter to cruise the 1,100-plus acres of Mt. Crested Butte, while in summer Crested Butte is a mountain bike mecca, with miles and miles of mining roads and single-track trails winding through the mountains. (The ski lifts convert to bike lifts, to save you suffering on the climb back uphill.)
Relax while you recharge your batteries with a burger and a beer or two at the Wooden Nickel (970/349-6350), at 222 Elk Street, or the adjacent Idlespur Brewpub (970/349-5026), at 226 Elk Avenue.
Three blocks north of Elk Avenue, the HI Crested Butte International Hostel (970/349-0588), 615 Teocalli Avenue, has dorm beds for around $20 a night. There are also hotels and chalets available through the ski resort (970/349-2262 or 800/544-8448).
