At the sleepy hamlet of Trempealeau (pop. 1,319), the GRR would have you zig-zag right through town, but detour a block down toward the river’s edge to find the Historic Trempealeau Hotel, Restaurant & Saloon ($50 and up; 608/534-6898), sole survivor of an 1888 downtown fire—maybe that’s why the whole joint is smoke-free. The hotel dining room offers a surprisingly eclectic menu, from steak and seafood to Tex-Mex and vegetarian dishes; just head for the “Delicious Food” neon sign. The rooms are nice (and cheap!), and the hotel also sponsors an excellent annual outdoor music series beginning with a Reggae Sunsplash the second weekend of May and featuring bands you’ve heard of throughout the summer (Steppenwolf and Asleep at the Wheel have appeared more than a few times). They rent canoes and bicycles to hardy souls desiring to try either the Long Lake Canoe Trail or the 100-mile network of paved bikeways that passes through town.
Shortly south of Trempealeau, the GRR crosses US-53. Consider taking this interstate-wannabe into La Crosse to avoid the uninteresting 12 miles of stop-and-go traffic through Holman and Onalaska, La Crosse’s northern abutters.
