The GRR begins here among the cattails and tall pines, in the park that protects the headwaters of the mighty Mississippi River. The small, clear brook tumbling out of the north end of Lake Itasca will eventually carry runoff from nearly two-thirds of the United States and enough silt to make the muddy plume at the river’s mouth visible from space. But at its headwaters, 2,550-odd meandering miles from the Gulf of Mexico, you can not only wade across the Mississippi, you can see the bottom. Here, drinking the river water won’t cause cancer—an increasingly rare claim, unfortunately.
The Mississippi’s humble beginnings were the object of chest-thumping adventurers and the subject of not-so-scholarly debate for decades before explorer Henry Rowe Schoolcraft, led by Ojibwa native Ozaawindib, determined this lake to be the true source of the nation’s most legendary river in 1832. Schoolcraft’s story, the tale of the battle to protect the park against logging, and lots of other Mississippi facts are found at the interpretive center just inside the park’s north entrance (open year-round; $7 per car; 218/266-2114). Skeptics will also find out why professional geographers don’t consider the two smaller lakes and the five creeks that feed Itasca competition for the headwaters title.
The fact that the lakeshore has been “improved” from its naturally marshy state, the surrounding old-growth pine forest—the most extensive stand of virgin timber left in the state—and outdoorsy amenities such as paved bike trails and boat launches all contribute to Itasca’s popularity; rangers and bulletin boards at either entrance can explain what’s going on when. Bike and boat rentals are available spring through fall opposite the park’s headquarters. If you plan to camp, be sure to pack repellent for ticks and mosquitoes; other accommodations include the grand turn-of-the-century Douglas Lodge, where rooms cost $50–80 a night, and assorted lakeside cabins (all overnight reservations can be made at 800/246-2267).
Just steps from the bike path and beach you’ll find the immaculate, friendly, and bargain-priced HI Mississippi Headwaters Hostel (year-round; 218/266-3415), which has rooms for families and couples as well as single travelers. When not fishing or foraging for your meals, consider the Douglas Lodge dining room, where the menu includes regional blueberries, wild rice, and walleye pike.
