Across the river from Dubuque, the Wisconsin town of Dickeyville is home to one of the most interesting folk-art environments along the Mississippi: the Dickeyville Grottoes ($1 suggested donation; 608/568-3119). Started by Father Mathias Wernerus in 1920 as a memorial to three local boys killed in World War I, and worked on as a community project by his followers up through the 1960s, the Dickeyville Grottoes consist of a series of caves, alcoves, and shrines made of poured concrete almost completely covered in shells, shards, minerals, and costume jewelry. Along with the expected Catholic religious themes, parts of the Grottoes also exhibit a unique vein of patriotic Americana—highlighted by the “Patriotism in Stone” memorial to Christopher Columbus, George Washington, and Abraham Lincoln. Maintained as a public park, with almost no commercialization, the Grottoes are open 24 hours every day at 305 W. Main Street, adjacent to the Holy Ghost Catholic Church, a block west of US-61.
Dickeyville can be reached a number of ways. It’s a quick shot north along US-151 from Dubuque, or from Prarie du Chien, you can follow scenic Hwy-133 along the east bank of the Mississippi. If it’s summertime and you want an up-close look at the Mississippi, make your way to Cassville, a historic frontier town that holds one of the river’s few surviving car ferries (daily 9 am–9 pm, Memorial Day–Labor Day, weekends only in May and October; $10 per car; 608/725-5180 for 24-hour information).
